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gmusaka Expert Cheater
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Joined: 30 Jan 2008 Posts: 191
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:31 pm Post subject: [Official] Computer Building Guide |
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Since everyone is saying I am a plagerizer , content deleted.
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1 #473 |\/|4ρŁ3ƒ495
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Last edited by gmusaka on Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:49 am; edited 7 times in total |
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Madman I post too much
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Good guide.
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Last edited by Madman on Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:57 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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superweapons Grandmaster Cheater Supreme
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Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 1355 Location: The Internet. Where else?
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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I have a few pointers.
Computer Components Introduction:
You didn't explain optical drives or sound cards/devices
Part 1:
All your product recommendations seem to be covering only the low price of the range (for example, the $75-$200 price range accounted for a $75-ish CPU, where an E7200/E8x00 could be a better contender). The only one that this doesn't cover is the Extreme High-End segment.
Part 2:
Like part 1, just some horrible pricing placement. But I'm referring to prices found at Newegg/US retailers. For example, Crucial Ballistix could fall into the "Low-end" segment, as I've found a 2GB kit for around $20.
The suggestions could be further refined, offering more ways to find out information. For example, the first one, you can check CPU-Z/Everest, or even in the BIOS to find out RAM type, not just opening the computer.
Part 3:
Well, the recommendations for "The Best", don't seem like "The Best", more like "Almost The Best"
Part 4:
For the most part, you are correct, but not all hard drives will work in any system.
In the "Performance" section, RPM speed matters a lot. So the Western Digital Raptors/Velociraptors would be a better recommendation.
Without clicking on the link, putting it simply, RAID 0 increases the speed, while RAID 1 is data backup.
You can get a RAID controller (as an addon card), so you don't necessarily need a motherboard with an integrated RAID controller.
Part 5:
State the part about DDR memory differently, it's likely to confuse readers. Instead of saying that it runs at half speed (which it doesn't'), since it does dual calculations (or something like that, can't find the words) 400MHz RAM adds up to an effective speed of 800MHz (SDR RAM would have to be clocked at 800MHz, while DDR RAM would only need to be clocked at 400MHz).
Increasing the RAM voltage can help decrease latency, so it's a factor.
Latency doesn't give a ton of performance, in games, it may yield a few FPS. But you should get the RAM that does the best in latencies while still retaining a 1:1 CPU clock to RAM clock speed.
I think that the reason overclockers (the really out-of-your-mind ones) get DDR3 is because they won't have to worry about the RAM being a limitation (RAM can't handle core clock speed on a 1:1 configuration). I might be mistaken though.
Part 6 (overclocking):
You don't necessarily need an aftermarket cooler, the stock ones work perfectly to a point. But for the best cooling and overclocking, an after market cooler is better.
[personal comment] Wait a while (so you can build a new computer), Intel is going to be releasing Nehalem on a new socket (I think it's called LGA1333 or something like that).
You don't need to hit the DEL key (or F8/F12/other keys) a billion times, 1-5 times should be enough (so the key lasting longer).
Other ways to reset the BIOS settings - Hit the CMOS jumper; or on the P35-DS3L, I only have to let it auto-restart a few times.
You can really only fry your components if you pump too much voltage into it.
Monitor the system temperatures by downloading SpeedFan or CoreTemp.
Entire Guide:
The layout made it difficult to understand things, for example, in Part 3, the line: "Single card - P35-DS3 650i MSI P6N Platinum" should be separated.
In the end, I think you might not need the high-end segment in all areas, as most of those in the area have learned this already.
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Andyroo Grandmaster Cheater
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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| hmm...u didnt post about graphics cards. im interested in them too.
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SFP+ Comp. talk moderator
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Joined: 02 May 2007 Posts: 1228 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:38 am Post subject: |
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Nice! Try to tidy it up though:
with Q:
and A:
for questions/answers, thread stickied!
Also, I'd say e4500/e4400 instead of amd x2.
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gmusaka Expert Cheater
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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Updating it, I will be done shortly...
Thanks for sticky.
The CPU section will have AMD and Intel processors 1 for each category.
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1 #473 |\/|4ρŁ3ƒ495
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hcavolsdsadgadsg I'm a spammer
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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pretty terrible guide, you're wrong on many price points and facts.
The Q6600 is sub $200
The 5000+ is sub $90.
I wouldn't doubt the E2180 out performing the 5000+.
The Thermaltake Ultra-120 is the BEST heatsink you can get, hands down.
Your ram shit is ridiculously out of whack.
High quality DDR2 from a reputable manufacturer like Corsair would be lucky to run you over $100.
Your 64 bit shit is wrong.
32 bit Windows (with PAE) enabled will happily map up to 4gb worth of shit. Your ram disappeared because other things need to be mapped into the address space, such as video ram.
PAE enables up to 36 bit addressing, so technically you can access up to 64 gb of ram under 32 bits. Of course, PAE is somewhat hackish in it's own right, and Windows limits you to 4gb anyway, so...
64 bit chips can't access the full 64 bits of memory, as of now it's usually 48, likely due to the die space savings and the fact that 48bit is still absolutely ridiculous. It's still 64 bits register wise and all that by any stretch of your imagination, but you can't access that much memory.
PSU list is retarded, bunch of no name brands. If it's not here, it's probably not worth your time. http://www.jonnyguru.com/
There's probably more wrong, but I just skimmed. Not to mention it looks like you copy and pasted this from somewhere, so the fact that you can't even copy and paste correct information makes you look like an even bigger dolt.
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gmusaka Expert Cheater
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the information, and C&C.
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1 #473 |\/|4ρŁ3ƒ495
I do HTML for them all
Last edited by gmusaka on Tue Jul 01, 2008 10:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Madman I post too much
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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This guide is good because it is great!!!
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Last edited by Madman on Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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gmusaka Expert Cheater
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Joined: 30 Jan 2008 Posts: 191
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Andyroo Grandmaster Cheater
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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| o.O y are u posting something thats 7 months old?
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gmusaka Expert Cheater
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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I deleted my forums so I thought I would post it... but I forgot to update before I uploaded it...
But I am updating now, just gonna edit all at one time.
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1 #473 |\/|4ρŁ3ƒ495
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Andyroo Grandmaster Cheater
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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| ok, then take the critcisms into considerations. they are supposed to help u, not to make u angry. actually i guess they make u angry. but uve decided to ignore that by making a new thread, IMO
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Ajax Grandmaster Cheater Supreme
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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You should have known you were going to take criticism if you were going to post something about computers that are ages old. Any true comp tweaker or gamer in the world should know that gaming and computer hardware constantly updates with companies competing for lower prices and better technology. You should have updated beforehand before posting this if you didn't want the "flame".
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Madman I post too much
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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edited.
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Last edited by Madman on Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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